Ask T.G.S.: How Often Should I Clean My Fountain Pens?

I often get questions from new users about cleaning fountain pens, namely how to do it and how often. I’ve previously published some resources on techniques for cleaning and maintaining fountain pens, but the most basic question involves frequency. There’s no clear answer: my general guidance is every two months or so as a rule of thumb, with more frequent cleaning recommended if you are using specialty inks that contain shimmer particles, are highly saturated, or feature pigment or other additives to make the inks permanent. Usually all you need to do is flush the pen with water using the integrated filling mechanism, a converter, or bulb syringe.

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While you may need to add a drop of dish detergent to tougher jobs (purples, reds, and oranges can sometimes be harder to clean), you don’t usually need more than a glass of water to thoroughly clean a fountain pen. The bulb syringe can help flush water through a cartridge/converter pen.

What Happens If You Don’t Clean Your Pens Regularly?

99% of the time, the worst thing that will happen is the pen will hard-start (not write immediately when you touch nib to paper), skip when writing, or not write at all because it’s clogged. Fountain pen ink is water-based, so over time the water in the ink will evaporate, causing the ink to thicken or dry up entirely and clog the pen. Most dyes used by ink manufacturers are water-soluble, so flushing the pen with water should resolve these issues, and if you clean the pen every couple of months as part of your routine you can usually avoid them altogether.

I will have to say that the need to clean pens religiously on some sort of set schedule is often overstated. I know many long-time fountain pen enthusiasts who never clean their pens at all, or at least not until the pen actually clogs, which they take as a sign that the pen “needs cleaning”. However, the best course of action is to use your pens regularly and rotate ink colors because it forces you to clean.

The Major “Don’t-Ever-Do-This” of Fountain Pens

Unfortunately, I’ve run into many new users who have been told by unknowledgeable sellers and “people online” that they can use artists inks such as India ink, Higgins ink, Calligraphy ink, and other paint-like inks in fountain pens. You cannot. Certain of these products contain shellac, which is a glue-like substance that will bind up the inside of your fountain pen and render it unusable if it is allowed to dry. You should only use ink labeled as safe for fountain pens, and preferably inks made by pen manufacturers or boutique ink manufacturers who specifically make ink for fountain pens.

The “Ask TGS” series of blog posts features questions from readers and customers that frequently appear in my inbox, social media DMs, and customer questions. Some of the most frequent posts are summarized on our FAQ page. We also answer reader questions on a podcast that we co-host with Vanness Pens, “On the Paper Trail”. If you have a question you want answered, please do write in using the contact form and we will try to answer the question in one of these forums.

Ask TGS: Buying My First Fountain Pen

Question: I’ve recently rediscovered an interest in writing by hand, and while I’ve always appreciated a good pen, I’ve never used a fountain pen and don’t know where to begin with all the different nib and filling system options. And what do I do about paper? Help!

I get this question all the time, and while I’ve probably answered it before in blog posts and/or videos, it tends to be timely right after the New Year when everyone has purchased their fresh planner or notebook and many consider whether they should pick up a fountain pen for the first time. But where to begin? Here’s my “two minute speech” that I typically give people in the shop or at a show:

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Don’t Spend a Lot of Money

If you’ve never used a fountain pen before, don’t start at the $200 price point. In fact, you probably don’t even want to start at the $50 price point. There are plenty of excellent fountain pens that cost $25 or less, which will allow you to get a feel for writing with a fountain pen nib, cleaning the pen, changing the ink, etc. without a huge sunk cost. In my own store, I have plenty of people who come in having never written with a fountain pen at all, and I almost always direct them to the Platinum Preppy, the Pilot Kakuno, or the Pilot Explorer (the latter if they really insist on having the ability to use bottled ink immediately since the Explorer ships with a converter). The Preppy is a great option for those uncertain about nib sizes and how different fountain pen nibs will work with their handwriting, since Preppy’s are inexpensive without being “disposable”, and you can buy them in multiple sizes to experiment. Our “Best Pens” post highlights these options and several more.

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Start with a basic ink, but even cartridges come in a range of colors.

Start with a Basic Blue, Black, or Blue-Black Fountain pen Ink

While experimenting with inks is a huge part of the fountain pen hobby, get used to writing with fountain pens first. Standard blue, black, and blue-black inks usually flow well, dry relatively fast, and come in both bottles and cartridges. (I usually recommend cartridge pens for true beginners.) It’s especially important to pay attention to ink if you’re left-handed, since many lefties hold the pen in a way that causes their hand to smear the ink if it takes too long to dry. Making sure the pen and ink combo is compatible with your handwriting style is the formula for success.

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Our B5 and A4 paper sorter, which we keep stocked with many different fountain pen friendly paper brands.

Be Sure You Have Some Decent Fountain Pen Friendly Paper

The same paper that you can use for ballpoints, gel pens, rollerballs, and pencils won’t necessarily work well with fountain pens. Most fountain pen ink is water-based, meaning that it may feather and bleed-through on particularly absorbent paper, especially recycled papers or office stock. Purchasing some slightly better paper with a heavier paper weight or coating will make for a more enjoyable writing experience. While Clairefontaine, Rhodia, Maruman, and Leuchtturm1917 are the usual go-to recommendations for solid paper that is easy to source, there are many smaller brands as well. For several years I’ve tracked paper brands and their relative “fountain pen friendliness” in this evergreen blog post that gets updated annually.

Give Yourself Some Time to Adjust to the Pen (and Writing with Fountain Pens in General) Before You Start Buying More

It’s easy to get carried away with online recommendations - everyone has their own opinion on “the best” fountain pen, often driven by their own personal preferences and experiences. That said, there’s only one way to figure out what your own preferences are, and that’s to gain as much experience as you possibly can by using pens for an extended period of time before moving on to something else. Obviously, if a pen truly doesn’t work for you (i.e., it doesn’t write, is falling apart, hurts your hand after more than a day or two), move on immediately, but try to avoid the “I-like-this-but-wonder-if-there-is-something-better” mentality that often leads to an acquisition mindset rather than the thoughtfulness or creativity many are seeking out in the first place.

A huge part of why I decided to open the physical T.G.S. shop in Nashville is to give people the opportunity to come in and experience fountain pens in person and to have conversations like this one before picking out a pen and deciding which one is right for you! We are open Thursdays and Fridays from 1-6pm and Saturdays from 10-6pm.

My Favorite Fountain Pens for Longer Writing Sessions

I frequently get this question, and it’s one that I feel is important because it touches on one of the key reasons that so many of us get into fountain pens in the first place: They offer a much more comfortable writing experience over longer sessions, whether that means an extended journaling session, drafting a novel, or pulling together a longer professional document like a report or a legal brief. Personally, I think better when I’m working by hand offline, and over the years I’ve explored pretty much all the analog writing techniques out there. A fountain pen and a good writing pad remains my favorite.

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Both of these grips are extremely comfortable for me to use.

What Factors Are Important for Comfortable Long-Form Writing?

If I’m preparing for a longer working session, I’ll consider three main factors when choosing a fountain pen: comfort, ink capacity, and the nib. In terms of comfort, I’m mainly talking about grip and balance. I have to be able to hold the pen easily for a long period of time, which means a comfortably grippy section and a pen barrel that doesn’t feel too weighted towards the front or the back of my hand. In terms of ink capacity, the pen doesn’t necessarily need to hold a ton of ink, but if I’m going away on a writing retreat or work trip I often will choose a piston filler just so I don’t have to worry about refilling (though a Pilot cartridge will last me a VERY long time). Finally, I’ll typically opt for a smooth medium nib, which gives me the least fussy writing experience and lets me “get lost” in whatever project I’m working on.

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The Lamy 2000 (top) next to the Pilot Custom 74.

My Top Three Fountain Pens for Long Writing Sessions in My Personal Collection

• Lamy 2000. Long-time readers of the blog won’t be surprised by my top choice. I tell anyone who will listen that if I had to get rid of all my fountain pens and keep just one, I would probably keep a Lamy 2000 (though depending on the rules I might try to keep multiple Lamy 2000s in different nib sizes). For whatever reason, this pen fits my hand perfectly. I love the lightweight Makrolon (brushed fiberglass composite) construction, which when posted has near perfect balance. And Lamy’s 14k medium nibs are among the best out there, in my opinion.

• Pilot Custom 74. A close second to the Lamy 2000, Pilot’s Custom 74 is my cartridge-converter fountain pen of choice. I actually use refilled Pilot cartridges more often than Pilot converters, given how much ink they hold. The Custom 74 is another one of those pens that seems to mold itself to my grip, to where I can write with this pen for hours with very little hand fatigue.

• Leonardo Momento Zero. The Momento Zero has a similar shape to the Lamy 2000, perhaps slightly larger, and if you prefer an even larger pen you can always opt for the Momento Zero Grande. Personally, the standard size fits my hand better than the Grande. Leonardo mainly uses JoWo nibs, which are reliable, if unspectacular, writers. As I mentioned above, sometimes when you want to get lost in a project, choosing a somewhat boring nib over a temperamental needlepoint or an exotic grind lets you focus more on the project itself than the tool you’re using.

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What About Budget-Friendly Choices?

The three pens I’ve chosen above are big purchases, and those looking to experiment with fountain pens for the first time probably don’t want to splurge on a $200+ gold-nib fountain pen that they don’t necessarily know if they’ll like. Two pens that I’ve used in the past for travel writing (in places I didn’t necessarily want to take an expensive pen) are the ubiquitous TWSBI ECO and the even more inexpensive Pilot Kakuno (complete with smiley-face nib). Despite garnering reputations as “beginner” fountain pens, these are excellent low-cost writing instruments. I consider both well-balanced with reliable nibs.

Conclusions and Further Reading

There’s no real one-size-fits all analysis here. I can offer my recommendations, as I frequently do at shows and in the shop, but choosing a fountain pen that you can write with for long periods of time takes a lot of research and personal experimentation to determine what meets your needs and preferences. One resource you may find helpful is the “Workhorse Pens” series of articles that I’ve written over the years. Do you have a favorite pen for longer writing sessions? Tell us about it in the comments below!

I try to periodically answer questions from readers and customers that frequently appear in my inbox, social media DMs, and customer questions. You’re always welcome to stop by our store and talk to me in person, and I maintain a FAQ (Ask TGS) section on the site. If you enjoy our content, we are supported entirely by purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program.

Ask TGS: Can I "Flex" a Pilot Soft Nib? What Does "Soft Fine" or "Soft Medium" Mean?

Because I’ve received this question two times in the past three days, in connection with the release of the Pilot Custom 74 Lavender Fog, I figured I would go ahead and answer because it’s important. To be clear, the Pilot “Soft” nibs are not flex nibs, and trying to force these nibs to flex may result in damage to the nib if you press them too hard.

So What Is a “Soft” Nib?

Some Japanese brands, namely Pilot and Platinum, sell a “soft” version of their fine, medium, and fine-medium 14k nibs. These nibs are slightly bouncier than the relatively stiff standard Japanese gold nibs, and will feel springier and put more ink on the page with a wetter line. That said, there is a fair bit of misinformation out there on whether or not these nibs are “flexible”, and whether you can press down on them to get additional line variation. I have to reiterate - do not try to flex these pens as you would a vintage flex nib, calligraphy nib, or even a Pilot FA nib. While they have some give to them, they are simply not designed to “spring back” into shape like a true flex nib.

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I find the soft nibs very pleasant to use to write standard cursive. As you can see, the additional bounce in the nib gives some slight variation to your letters, and the ink flows nicely.

Some of the confusion may stem from the fact that nib technicians advertise these nibs as suitable for conversion to a more flexible nib. For example, I have a pen that I sent to Custom Nib Studio, to which Gena added flex by thinning out the tines. Soft nibs from Pilot and Platinum often make very good candidates for this nib modification, but they are a starting point, not a finished product in that regard.

For the U.S. market, Pilot releases specialty nibs such as the “soft” nib series in specific models - typically the Custom Heritage 91 and the Custom 743. I was thrilled to see these nibs released in the Custom 74 model, which remains one of my favorite everyday writers because it’s nearly the perfect size for my hand. As I noted yesterday, I picked a Soft Fine-Medium in the Lavender Fog because I wasn’t going to let this one go.

The “Ask TGS” series of blog posts features questions from readers and customers that frequently appear in my inbox, social media DMs, and customer questions. When one of the questions has immediate relevance and/or urgency - such as this one - I will bump that question to the top of the list. Some of the most frequent posts are summarized on our FAQ page.

Ask TGS: Do I Have to Use Fountain Pen Ink from the Same Manufacturer as My Pen?

I’ve always wanted to directly address this question because it’s one I get a lot (including multiple times today in-shop). Many pen companies - especially luxury purveyors such as Montblanc - make a point of emphasizing in their warranty materials that you should only use their in-house brands of ink. For example, only use Montblanc ink in a Montblanc pen, Pelikan ink in a Pelikan pen, etc. The reason for these disclaimers are straightforward: If you damage your pen by using another brand’s ink, they shouldn’t be held responsible for you using a product over which they have no control. But how likely is it that you will actually harm your pen by mixing pens and inks of different brands, or from using any given ink in general? In my experience, not very likely, and I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve seen someone do truly irreparable harm to a fountain pen by using the “wrong” ink.

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I have no issue using boutique inks (like the Wet Pen inks shown here) in any of my pens. With any fountain pen ink, typically the worst thing that can happen is that the pen clogs, which a flush with water will fix. If you have any doubts, test with a glass pen or steel dip pen first.

Most Standard Fountain Pen Inks Are Perfectly Safe to Use in Any Pen

Fountain pen inks are generally water-based, so unless you are using calligraphy ink or ink with some sort of special chemical property (discussed further below), you are unlikely to cause permanent harm to your pen. Note that when I say that an ink is “safe,” I mean that it will not destroy the nib, feed, or filling system to the point where you will need to send it in for any sort of warranty repair. The pen will continue to write. HOWEVER, if you are using any color other than black or standard blue - and especially brighter colors like red or purple - you do run the risk of staining clear acrylics or lighter-color materials. My personal recommendation is that if you have a pen you are extremely concerned about staining, use only standard blacks and blues made by companies like Pelikan, Waterman, Herbin, etc. These inks tend to be on the less saturated side, and I have found them less likely to stain.

Exercise Caution When Using Inks with Special Properties

By “Special Properties,” I mean things like permanence, heavy shimmer, no-freeze, super-sheen, and other attributes that you increasingly see advertised in today’s market. While most of these inks will not cause issues in modern fountain pens, if an ink clogs or otherwise causes an issue with your very expensive piston filler, the original manufacturer may decline to cover the pen under the warranty if they didn’t make the ink themselves. Again, while issues with these inks aren’t common, and the worst that usually happens is a clog that can be flushed out with water at home, you do proceed at your own somewhat low, but not zero, risk.

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Don’t get me wrong, I also have a selection of calligraphy inks and other non-fountain pen safe supplies. I just keep a selection of dip pens close at hand.

The MOST IMPORTANT RULE IS TO Only Use Fountain Pen Inks in Fountain Pens

By far, most of the stories I hear about inks damaging pens involve people attempting to use calligraphy and India ink in a fountain pen, which is a big no-no. Not only do these inks stain, but some contain glue-like substances such as shellac. For obvious reasons, introducing these inks into a fountain pen is a bad idea because you will literally never get them out, and any integrated filling system will likely be ruined. (It’s basically the equivalent of using paint.)

So, the short-form, TLDR version of this answer is “Don’t worry too much and enjoy your pens, as long as you are using inks by a reputable company advertised for use in fountain pens.” Clean your pens semi-regularly and don’t allow the ink to evaporate. If you have a very expensive or sentimental pen that you are concerned about damaging (especially staining), consider only using standard blues or blacks, and never, ever, use India ink in any fountain pen!

I periodically take a day to answer reader questions, some of which you can find archived in the FAQ section of the site. If you’re in the Nashville area, we’re always happy to answer your questions in person at our Nashville shop.